Another shawl finished

Added the fringed finish to this last night.

Another shawl finished. I am not going to be cold this winter and no prizes for guessing what everyone is getting for Christmas this year!

This shawl is adapted from this pattern by Caron:

http://www.caron.com/projects/ss/ss7_spider_stitch_wrap.pdf



but I used a thicher thread and bigger hook size to create a denser feel throw.

As I like the pattern, I may give it another go in a different yarn, but for now I am moving on to my next crochet project.

February's C of Creations - Knitted Cowls

OK - I know it is the first of March today, therefore I am officially late for February's posting.  I have no excuse except - errr - actually I have no excuse. Sorry.

During February as the sun broke through it kept the temperatures very cool, especially at night with heavy frosts every morning, and so my new love of cowls sprang up.  These are so practical, just throw it over your head, tuck in around your neck then zip up your coat, warm and toasty.  Great when you are walking to work at 7.30 am and half asleep.

Seed stitch coat collar cowl.

 This is one I have made for sale when I finally get my shop back open this month.

I love seed stitch, it is so thick and chunky and looks fabulous, slightly more formal, and so I have teamed this coal with some glorious bevel edged vintage black buttons. 

To knit:

Use a soft chunky wool on size 6.5mm or 7mm needles.

Cast on 30 stitches.

Row 1 : Knit 1, purl 1 along the row including the first stitch.

Row 2 : Purl 1, knit 1 along the row including the first stitch.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the body of the cowl measures 70 cm.

For seed stitch, remember, you always knit into a purl and purl into a knit.

Cast off knit-wise.

To create the shape of coal coat collar, take one end and fold in half, position across the other end which is kept flat, pin into place, then fasten with a couple of stitches and finish with a couple of large buttons or wool flowers.

Loopy Loose Cowl

 This cowl is made in the same wool, but with a completely different stitch that creates a different texture and feel to the cowl.

Once again use a thick soft wool and size 6.5mm or 7mm needles.

Cast on 40 stitches.

For every row, the first and last 5 stitches are creating a border and are therefore not counted in the looping pattern stitch.

Row 1 : knit every stitch

Row 2 : (first pattern row)  knit 5, * yarn over, knit two together, repeat from * until last 5 stitches, knit 5

Row 3 : knit every stitch

Row 4 (second pattern row) knit 5, * knit 2 tog, yarn over, repeat from * until 5 stitches remain, knit 5

Repeat rows 1 to 4 until cowl is long enough to loop around you neck comfortably, this will depend slightly on how loose your loops are but approximately 80 cm.

Cast off after a knit row, then join ends together.  Wear half tucked in under a coat, or loose over a jacket.

Enjoy.

bring on the winter so I can wrap up warm

my crochet shawl is finished and I for one think it looks great.

The pattern is a freebie - link to it here on www.redheart.com, another great resource for free patterns.

I have crocheted it on size 7mm hook in Phildar Kadisha 130 75% acrylic/25% wool, 15 balls of which I found on sale at a car boot sale for a couple of euros a couple of years ago and it has been lurking in the project cupboard ever since.

I even had enough wool left over to add the fringing.

A very satisfying crochet project.

Recycled material bag - crochet pattern

I did say when I finished this bag that I would write up the pattern - so here it is.

No gauge or needle size instructions as this is for a recycled material bag, so these are dependent on what material you use. I used an old frogged jumper, two strands at a time because I wanted a thick pattern and a sturdy bag, and needle size 8mm.

Chain 22.

The bag is worked round and round to create a seamless pattern.

hdc = half double crochet

Stitches used: half double crochet, single chain, slip stitch

row 1: hdc in 2nd chain from hook, then in each chain stitch to end. 2 hdc in the corner end stitch, turn.

row 2; hdc in each stitch to last 2, work 2 hdc in the two end stitches, turn.

row 3: hdc in each stitch to last 2 stitches, work 2 hdc in each of the two end stitches, turn.

row 4: hdc in each stitch to last 3 stitches, work 2 hdc in each of the three end stitches, turn.

row 5: hdc in each stitch to last 3 stitches work 2 hdc in each of the three end stitches, turn.

This is the base of your bag. If you want it bigger because of your plans for the bag or because you have enough material, just continue rows 4 and 5 until you have the base size you want.

To start working the body of the bag, work the following row in the front loops only.

row 6: hdc in each stitch, work 2 hdc in the end stitch, then hdc back to the other end, work 2 hdc in the end stitch.

Work again in both loops.

row 7, 8, 9: hdc in each stitch down to end, work 2 hdc in the end stitch, work 1 hdc in each stitch back to the other end, work 2 hdc in end stitich.

Repeat the above until you get the height you want for your bag, I worked these rows three times to get a taller basket type bag.

Switch to your contrast fabric or ribbon at the side of the bag. (Unfortunately this did not work so well as I only had enough ribbon for one round, so I finished my embellishment round in the main bag fabric).

row 10: work hdc in each stitch around

row 11: work hdc in each stitch around

OR - ALTERNATIVE ROW 11 - using the main fabric of the body or your contrast fabric - ignoring the last coloured row, single chain in one loop of each stitch of the main body fabric as it joins to the embellishment fabric. (This creates the row that stands slightly proud of the main bag body as per my bag in the photo).

Switch back to your main bag fabric and work through both loops of each stitch again.

row 12, 13, 14, 15: hdc in each stitch around for these 4 rounds and end at the side of the bag.

Optional variation if you have enough contrast fabric. Switch to contrast fabric for this one row, starting on the same bag side as the previous contrast rounds.

row 16: hdc in each stitch of this round.

Switch back to main material.

row 17: hdc in each stitch of this round.

row 18: starting at the side of the bag, hdc in each of the next 7 stitches, chain 20 for the handles (you can chain slightly longer if your bag is small and light, but this is not designed to be an over the shoulder style of bag).
Join the handle chain back into the bag with a single chain, leaving approximately 14 stitches unworked in the centre of the bag - this is an approximate number, fold your bag opening in half at the sides and simply ensure that you have your handle centrally positioned.
Work hdc into the remaining 7 stitches of that side of the bag.

row 19: hdc around the other side of the bag for 7 stitches, chain 20 and join with a single stitch into bag, leaving approx 14 stitches unworked under the handle. hdc for the remaining 6 stitches. Fold your bag opening and check that handles are aligned with each other and centrally positioned for the bag.

row 20: hdc in each stitch of the bag around to the handle, then work 2 hdc in the stitch at the base of the handle, and hdc in each stitch around the handle until you reach the end stitch to work 2 hdc again, hdc in each stitch round to the second handle, work 2 hdc into the stitch at the base, hdc in each stitch of the handle, then work 2 hdc into the base stitch, work 1 hdc into each stitch back to the side of the bag.

For an alternative finish - using contrast fabric or leather strips.

row 21: single chain, slip stitch in each stitch of the round to create a smooth bound edge. I would really have liked to do this even with the main material of the bag body, but I just did not have enough frogged jumper left.

Fasten off and weave ends under on the inside of the bag.

This is another easy but rewarding project, quite quick to do and one that can be done on the sofa watching TV, as there is not much counting or pattern following required. Plus you can use pretty much any fabric or yarn you have so it would be a good catch all project for tidying up your left over scrap fabrics. I am saving my left over hat and shawl yarns ready to make the next bag - which is going to end up a mish mash of colours and textures.